For her first ready-to-wear collection since Karl Lagerfeld’s death, Virginie Viard took to the Parisian rooftops on an impressive set reserving a vantage point of view to the urban landscape. CHANEL’s artistic director drew inspiration from the Nouvelle Vague cinematic era and delivered a dreamy collection depicting her personal, female vision.
If one had to point out a key element of the show, that would be its girliness. Viard employed patterns, colors, textures and lengths (watch out for the leggy silhouettes) that resonate with the younger crowds and made sure the collection emitted a casual, laid-back vibe, representative of the ‘youth culture’ aesthetic. With Kristen Stewart as Jean Seberg being her visual reference, it comes as no surprise that what Virginie Viard’s inspiration focused on is the mental picture of a carefree, minimalist and stylish girl, out and about.
Tweed playsuits, tiny silk shorts, coatdresses, bell-shaped skirts, silvery and pink metallics, embroidered puff-sleeve blouses and many more items along with the classic CHANEL tweed suit reimagined as a romper, formed a playful, relatable runway, not as much adorned with accessories as in Lagerfeld’s years, but a trifle more urban and simplified.
While everyone is eagerly waiting for Virginie to indicate CHANEL’s new spirit and direction with a bang, this collection proved that change can come from within, subtly but significantly.
Renaissance art, cinema, Italian tradition and immaculate craftsmanship formed the core-inspiration of the Ermanno Scervino Spring 2020 ready-to-wear show. Aesthetic and tailoring elements taken directly from the essential men’s wardrobe were molded into a modern-eccentric collection destined to leave everyone in awe.
Leather jackets in black or white, three-piece suits with sparkles or studded with crystal embellishments, striped trousers, strappy dresses, long silk skirts and prints of all sorts give the impression of a plethoric fashion vision that includes and honors an abundance of style references. From grungy organza dresses paired with oxfords to romantic, glittery ones, this collection seems unwilling to “pick a side” and speak to a certain crowd. Truth be told, it does not even look particularly commercial. In a time where everything is about sales and consuming fashion rather than understanding and embracing it, Ermanno Scervino introduces a new modus operandi focused on the artistic and carefree side of the industry.
Pieces and styling combinations that may come across as incomprehensible at first sight (take the animal print robe with the pj-like cropped trousers for example) on second thought appear to tell a story of their own. And come to think of it, fashion is mainly narrative. Looks like Ermanno Scervino came up with a profoundly inspiring one.