The inspiration behind the CHANEL Spring Couture Show 2020 was rather obvious from the beginning, to anyone who has even a remote knowledge of Gabrielle Chanel’s past. Reminiscent of the brand’s founder’s childhood in the convent of Aubazine where she was sent after her mother’s death, the setting took the form of a monastic garden. The concept was a tribute to Gabrielle’s early, formative years and her first style references as impressed upon her by the convent’s nuns.
Big and long fits, embroidered skirts, tulle overskirts, uniform-like dresses, suit jackets, airy cloaks, pointed collars and dreamy embellishments, along with a palette of black, gray, mauve, cream, and white, evoked a sense of simplicity and wearability through a redefined prism of austerity. Virginie Viard found an ingenious way of transmuting what is aesthetically considered obsolete into a modern fashion proposal, and her overall work delivered a brand-new feel of lightness and freedom. “I think it’s good to make clothes for women in a summer spirit. It is so pleasant to go barefoot and wear a long skirt and a big, cotton grandfather shirt, or lace pieces”, Viard explains, by way of admitting to her inclination towards easy going and self-indulgent style.
Maturity meets girliness, rustic meets urban and classic CHANEL meets the brand’s new age in a collection that describes contemporary woman as a transcending creature that can combine pretty much everything, while maintaining her elegance. And although Karl used to consider the whole nun inspiration “ugly”, as Virginie Viard herself stated, it looks like it brought her creativity to the exact place it needed to be in order to bloom. The perfect fashion garden.
During the last few years, Tom Ford has made a strong and unapologetic statement through his work, aligned with the current philosophy of fashion on a global -and some could say existential- scale. Enough with the grandiosity and the exaggerated maximalism. What the world needs right now is the kind of stylish glam that only the cool and laid-back attitude is able to produce.
For his 2020 Ready to Wear Collection, Tom Ford brought casual to the next level, thanks to a creative and somewhat heretic concoction of an early 00s type of street aesthetic and Californian nonchalance. Denim patchwork pants and skirts, sliced sweatshirts, floral patterns and animal prints, tailored pants, airy and sleek dresses, luxurious satin and velvet fabrics, provocative see-through gowns and a wide color palette, from Tom Ford classic deep favorites to lighter and pop tones, attest to a modern manifesto of unafraid diversity.
Inspired by a 1967 Bob Richardson photo of Baron Alexis de Waldner and Donna Mitchell sharing a cigarette or a joint, Tom Ford recreated his own version of L.A. elegance which he described as “chic, possibly slightly stoned, and very sensual”. Judging by the number of A-list style savvy celebrities that attended the show, including Jon Hamm, Miley Cyrus, Anna Wintour, Demi Moore and Jeff Bezos, Tom’s vision resonates with the fashion world big time.