Trying to define femininity in an absolute, one-dimensional way is a pointless quest, representing none other than those bound by dated delusions of strict identities and social norms. Ermanno Scervino’s take on modern femininity is an amalgam of desires, a fearless display of different character versions. For its pre-fall collection, the brand decided to bring out the female style diversity, while staying creatively faithful to its core values.
Romantic lace gowns paired with oversized wool coats, black leggings with fitted blazers and matching gloves, puffer jackets with tweed midi skirts, embroidered turtlenecks with skinny leather pants. The collection emits a vibe of chic provocation as it unfolds a vast variety of possible selections, depicting the many faces of today’s women. The combination of lingerie-like garments with heavy combat boots and structured overcoats serves as a statement that challenges our perception of traditionally masculine clothes. Ermanno Scervino single-handedly proves that style is a versatile power that one can possess and manipulate as long as their spirit allows it. Social conventions are not relevant.
While the comeback of the animal print and the mini skirt reinstates the element of eye-catching stopping power, this collection makes it clear that a woman can be as subtle or extravagant as she wants to. In the end, it all comes down to the mood of the day.
The special aesthetic and historical significance of the Château des Dames is very well known between those who appreciate the sumptuous fragments of the glorious past and the stories, hidden or otherwise, that permeate the long fabric of time. The Château gave Virginie Viard a glimpse into the majestic world of the 16th century, as well as its associations with powerful female figures of the time, such as Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de Medici. Meanwhile the Château’s reminiscence of Gabrielle Chanel’s La Pausa inspired the brand’s creative director to give life to a collection that combines the allure of a long lost culture with CHANEL’s very essence.
The Métiers d'Art collection, an occasion dedicated by definition to exquisite craftsmanship, was the perfect “excuse” for Virginie Viard to transmute the castle’s bits and pieces, from tapestries and flower motifs to elements taken from its kitchens, into prints and embroideries beautifully applied to the carefully designed and executed creations. Goth princess looks, embellished jackets, lycra leggings, armor-like dresses, intricate knits, oversized tweeds, capes and playfully romantic skirts form a plethoric mosaic of old and new references brilliantly coinciding in a common place of beauty and balance. Viard’s influence from Karl Lagerfeld’s fall 1983 collection resulted in a 3D kind of sequin and satin ball skirts, delivered thanks to the house of Montex, one of the 38 Maison d’ Art suppliers that CHANEL has acquired through the years.
Where simplicity meets maximalism is where modern fashion miracles happen. Virginie Viard found an ingenious way to merge classicism with contemporary streetwear and she did so seamlessly. We cannot wait to see what the future holds.