CHANEL RESORT 2023: A SEASIDE VISION OF CLASS AND PLAYFULNESS

The Formula One Grand Prix, the Monte Carlo Casino, Grace Kelly, Helmut Newton’s iconic photos and Karl Lagerfeld’s long friendship with Princess Caroline of Monaco and her family: the lore of Monte Carlo and CHANEL’s special relationship with it (the first CHANEL subsidiary opened there in 1913) played a key part in Virginie Viard’s inspiration, while she prepared the house’s latest Resort collection. What CHANEL’s creative director had in mind was a sort of “flippant buoyancy”. Clothes with a nonchalant attitude, heavily influenced by retro glamour and steeped in pop culture.

The show began with a series of chic coveralls embroidered with sequins, evoking a Charlie’s Angels vibe. Chiffon skirts with waving starter flag prints and tweed jumpsuits resembling car mechanics’ workwear paid tribute to the culture of races and fast cars, while checked patterns graced everything from fluttering dresses to swimsuits, shorts and blazers. Striped shirtdresses with sailing boat motifs, bags shaped like crash helmets, biker jackets, cricket sweaters and a pink-and-white gingham windbreaker covered in faux team badges complemented the display, along with a series of mini and long dresses, both in wool-knit and in airy cotton or lace. Details like the bouquets of silk flowers, the feather fronds and the floral embroideries express CHANEL’s dedication to intricate design and valuable artisan houses such as Lemarié, Lesage and Montex.

The overall atmosphere of the show was that of a summer promise. Set within the emblematic Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel, it was bound to bring out feelings of carefree leisure and nostalgia: “'To me, Monaco is a matter of feelings above all,” says Viard. “I will never forget the times I spent there: terraces and balconies, big umbrellas, baskets of flowers – so much beauty.” Beauty, indeed. What everything comes down to, eventually.

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