Set at the Jardin de L'Étrier in the Bois de Boulogne, CHANEL’s FW 22-23 Couture Show was a brilliant synthesis of all those elements that are known to spark the house’s artistic director’s imagination. Virginie Viard infused the collection with the emblems of her inspiration: Karl Lagerfeld’s classic silhouettes, Fred Astaire’s cinematic outfits, as well as Gabrielle Chanel’s ‘30s aesthetic values, they all paraded down a Constructivist runway crafted by installation artist Xavier Veilhan and showcased a mesmerizing and plethoric high-end collection.

Suits and long dresses that Gabrielle Chanel imagined nearly a century ago were reintroduced in a way that gloriously connects the past with the future. Fitted to the body, yet with strong shoulders, beautifully pleated and adorned with lace, they were reworked carefully so that they match today’s fashion standards. A palette consisting of bright green, khaki, beige, pink, lots of black and silver creates an inviting and elegant stylistic context. Tweed skirt and jacket co-ords, capri-style pants, floral dresses, metallic and wool coats with fringes, oversized pied-de-poule patterns and intricate lacework and embroidery managed to bring out the casual side of haute couture. Meanwhile, wide-brim hats and chunky cowboy boots paid tribute to the equestrian center in which the show took place, and a white head bow along with a boho-chic shawl complemented the jaw-dropping white strapless wedding gown that closed the show (worn by Jill Kortleve).

Looking closely at the models, one can easily spot an abundance of jewelry gracing the looks. Viard’s homage to “Bijoux de diamants”, the first and only jewelry collection designed by Gabrielle Chanel is an indication of how the house sees fashion as a whole: you cannot invent the future without a look back at the most powerful moments of yesterday.