Virginie Viard played with the marriage of sturdy tweed and fragile chiffon throughout the collection, inspired, as she explained, by the legendary style of the late Stella Tennant. The Fall Winter 2021 collection is also infused with “ski spirit”: Norwegian sweaters, quilted salopettes, voluminous puffers, and ski pants worn with short cropped jackets that she has styled either with the midriff bared or with the nightclub-friendly flowered black lace camisoles that also crop up under fluid knit suits or paired with a 2/55 quilted satin miniskirt.

Tom Ford combined hot pants, worn with turtleneck sweaters and puffer or aviator jackets for the Fall Winter 2021 Collection. The oversized jackets and underwear combos sprung from a lingerie ad the designer remembers from his youth. However, it was equally inspired by what young women were doing all last summer in New York—wearing bikini and bra tops with baggy jeans and longer skirts on the street.

This season preciousness meets the world of sport, opens up to the pragmatism of the street, while keeping the refinement, in a commentary on the thinning of barriers and distinctions, on the mixing of occasions which characterizes fashion today. The tension of opposites, becomes a dialogue between day and night, inside and out, essential and embroidered, dense and evanescent, fluid and sturdy.